Discover precision-engineered Polymer80 lowers for sale, offering hobbyists and builders a reliable foundation for custom firearm projects. These uncompleted frames provide a legal, DIY approach to crafting your own pistol without the need for serialized transfers. Explore durable, 80% polymer receivers designed for straightforward finishing and robust performance.
Understanding 80% Lower Receivers and Their Legal Status
Understanding 80% lower receivers begins with recognizing that they are not legally considered firearms under federal law because they lack a fully-machined fire control cavity. This designation allows hobbyists to legally purchase an unfinished lower without a serial number or background check, then complete it at home for personal use. However, the legal status becomes complex due to state and local regulations. Many jurisdictions now classify these components as firearms once they are partially finished, requiring serialization, a background check, or an FFL transfer. Always verify your state’s specific statutes before purchasing or machining, as possession of an unregistered or unserialized receiver can lead to severe penalties. For expert compliance, treat any 80% lower as a firearm in waiting and document your manufacturing process thoroughly.
What Defines an 80% Lower Receiver in Current Markets
An 80% lower receiver is essentially an unfinished firearm component, often an AR-15 lower, that requires machining to function as a firearm. Unlike a finished receiver, it’s not serialized by a manufacturer, which is why it can be legally purchased without a background check at the federal level. However, the legal status gets tricky because once you complete it, you’ve made a firearm for personal use. While federal law generally allows this, a growing number of states and local jurisdictions strictly regulate or outright ban private manufacturing of unserialized firearms.
Always check your state and local laws before buying or finishing an 80% lower, as penalties for non-compliance can be severe.
The key distinction is that the ATF does not consider an 80% lower a “firearm” under the Gun Control Act, but once you drill the fire control pocket, it becomes one. Several states now require you to apply for a serial number from law enforcement before completing it. Others have completely prohibited the possession of unfinished receivers. Common restrictions include:
- Requiring a background check to purchase the blank.
- Mandating serialization by a licensed gunsmith.
- Banning the sale or transfer of completed homemade firearms.
Key Federal Regulations Governing Unfinished Frames
Understanding the legal landscape of 80% lower receivers is crucial for anyone exploring firearm builds. These unfinished metal or polymer blanks are not classified as firearms by the ATF because they lack critical fire-control cavities, allowing individuals to legally purchase them without serial numbers or background checks. However, this DIY route demands extreme precision—you must complete the machining yourself to create a functional receiver, and any mistake can ruin the part. Federal law treats them as non-firearms, but state regulations vary dramatically, with jurisdictions like California and New Jersey banning their unlicensed possession. Always verify your local statutes before starting a build, as penalties for non-compliance can be severe. This gray area creates a dynamic tension between personal craftsmanship and tight regulatory oversight.
State-Level Restrictions Every Buyer Must Know
An 80% lower receiver is essentially a partially finished firearm frame, lacking critical fire-control cavities, that requires machining to become functional. In the United States, these blanks are not legally considered firearms, so you can buy them without a background check or serial number. However, once you complete the machining—drilling trigger and hammer pin holes, for instance—you have built a firearm subject to certain rules. While federal law doesn’t require you to serialize personal builds, several states like California, New York, and Colorado impose strict registration, serialization, or outright bans on these homemade receivers. 80% lower receivers legal status varies widely, so always check your local laws first. If you sell or transfer a completed lower, you must do so through a Federal Firearms License (FFL) dealer. Understanding these boundaries helps you stay compliant while building your own firearms responsibly.
Comparing Polymer80 to Other 80 Percent Lower Brands
When evaluating Polymer80 against other 80 percent lower brands like 5D Tactical, Juggernaut Tactical, or Anderson Manufacturing, the primary distinction often lies in material and machining requirements. Polymer80 lowers, made from reinforced nylon polymer, are popular for their ease of finishing with basic hand tools and their proprietary jig system, which simplifies the process for beginners. In contrast, brands like 5D Tactical and Juggernaut Tactical typically offer aluminum 80 percent lowers, which provide superior durability and structural rigidity but require a router or drill press for completion. While Polymer80’s design integrates a locking block for the front rail, aluminum lowers often demand more precise machining of fire control pockets. However, Polymer80’s polymer construction can be less heat-resistant than billet aluminum, making it less optimal for high-volume fire. Ultimately, Polymer80 emphasizes convenience and accessibility for DIY builders, whereas aluminum alternatives favor longevity and material strength.
Material Differences: Polymer vs. Aluminum vs. Steel
When comparing Polymer80 to other 80 percent lower brands like 5D Tactical or JSD Supply, Polymer80 stands out for its unmatched user-friendly design and reliability. Polymer80 lowers offer superior ergonomics and a simpler completion process than most competitors. While 5D Tactical often requires more precise jig alignment and JSD Supply demands additional finishing work, Polymer80’s patented front and rear rail system ensures a drop-in fit with minimal filing. Additionally, their reinforced polymer frame resists flexing under stress better than budget alternatives like the GST-9. For builders seeking a near-factory feel without the complexity, Polymer80 remains the top choice, providing a seamless balance of affordability and performance that other brands struggle to match.
Ease of Milling and Assembly for DIY Enthusiasts
When it comes to 80 percent lowers, Polymer80 often steals the spotlight, but other brands like 80% Arms and JSD Supply hold their own in key areas. The main difference boils down to material and machining ease. Polymer80 frames are lightweight, affordable, and require more hand-fitting with jigs that can wear out. In contrast, 80% Arms offers aluminum lowers with precise CNC-cut pockets that need minimal finishing, though they cost more. JSD Supply blends value with durability, providing stainless steel jigs that last longer than Polymer80’s polymer guides. For AR-15 builds, Polymer80’s poly lowers are ideal for a quick, cost-effective project, while aluminum options from competitors are better for long-term reliability and tighter tolerances. If you prioritize speed and budget, go with Polymer80; if you want a sturdier, repeatable build, consider an aluminum alternative.
Durability and Longevity in High-Round Count Builds
In my workshop, Polymer80 always felt like the rebel—easy to machine, forgiving of rookie mistakes—while brands like 5D Tactical demanded precision from the start. The 80% lower market comparisons hinge on this divide: Polymer80’s nylon-based frame flexes under tension, reducing cracking risks, but its jig can warp after repeated use. Conversely, JSD Supply’s aluminum lowers boast tighter tolerances, though they require a router. Lone Wolf’s hybrid designs split the difference, offering steel barrel blocks for stability. For my first build, Polymer80’s DIY accessibility won; later, I craved 5D’s robust jig that locked the receiver like a vice. The key trade-off is material: polymer simplifies drilling but sacrifices longevity, while metal resists wear yet demands patience.
Where to Find Complete Kits for Your Next Build
For expert builders, the most reliable source for complete kits is specialized retailers like Micro Center or B&H Photo, which offer curated bundles with verified component compatibility. Online marketplaces such as Newegg and Amazon provide extensive search filters for full builds, though you must scrutinize sellers for genuine stock. For premium quality, consider direct manufacturers like Fractal Design or Corsair, which sell pre-vetted kits. Avoid general department stores; their kits often bottleneck performance. Always prioritize vendors that list exact specifications for the motherboard, PSU, and GPU—this ensures your complete kits deliver optimal performance without upgrade regrets.
Top Online Retailers Offering Reliable Inventory
For your next project, sourcing complete kits is most efficient through dedicated specialty retailers. Complete model kits for beginners are widely available from online hobby shops like HobbyLobby, Amazon, and direct manufacturer sites such as Tamiya USA or Revell. These outlets offer all-in-one boxes containing sprues, decals, instructions, and often basic paints or glue. Local brick-and-mortar hobby stores provide the advantage of inspecting packaging and receiving immediate advice. For niche builds—like rare sci-fi subjects or vintage military vehicles—check specialist international sellers. A typical search filter might include:
- Scale (e.g., 1/35, 1/48)
- Difficulty (beginner/intermediate/expert)
- Included tools (paint, cement)
- Theme (car, aircraft, ship, figure)
Always verify the kit’s completeness by reading item descriptions or customer reviews before purchase.
Local Gun Shows and Private Sales Opportunities
For your next build, sourcing comprehensive kits from specialized suppliers ensures compatibility and saves time. Premium project kits are available through dedicated online retailers like McMaster-Carr, Grainger, or Amazon Business, which offer curated selections for robotics, electronics, and mechanical builds. Local hardware stores such as Home Depot or Lowe’s stock modular shelving and general-purpose assembly kits. For hobbyist or custom projects, platforms like Adafruit or SparkFun provide detailed component bundles. When evaluating options, consider the following:
- Pre-defined kits with step-by-step instructions.
- Custom-build bundles from supplier catalogs.
- Open-source community lists for verified part compatibility.
Always verify inventory and shipping policies before purchasing to avoid missing critical pieces.
Verifying Seller Authenticity and Product Authenticity
For your next build, sourcing complete kits from specialized retailers ensures you get every necessary component without the hassle of piecemeal shopping. Premium all-in-one project kits are best found at dedicated hobby shops like Micro Center, Adafruit, and SparkFun, which offer curated selections for electronics, robotics, and woodworking. These suppliers provide detailed instructions and guaranteed compatibility, eliminating guesswork. Always verify the included tool list before purchasing to avoid frustrating shortages. Alternatively, Amazon and Home Depot stock budget-friendly options for beginners, but their quality and completeness can vary. For maximum control, custom kit builders such as JLCPCB or PCBWay allow you to design and order precisely tailored bundles. Stick with verified sellers to ensure your build progresses smoothly from unboxing to completion.
Essential Tools and Tips for Finishing Your Receiver
To achieve a pristine finish on your receiver, prioritize high-quality soldering equipment to ensure clean, reliable joints that prevent signal loss. A reliable multimeter is indispensable for verifying continuity and voltage, while quality heat-shrink tubing protects connections from shorts. For optimal performance, apply a thin layer of thermal paste to heat sinks and use a torque wrench when mounting hardware to avoid damaging delicate components. Remember to clean the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol to remove flux residue, a common source of parasitic noise. These DIY audio upgrades not only boost durability but also unlock the receiver’s true sonic potential, transforming a basic build into a professional-grade powerhouse. Each precise step elevates both functionality and longevity.
Jig Kits and Drill Press vs. Hand Tools
Getting a clean finish on your receiver is all about using the right gear and a little patience. Essential tools for a professional receiver build start with a solid soldering station, quality flush cutters, and a good multimeter for testing connections. You’ll also want a third hand or helping tool to keep everything stable. Before you start, always double-check your resistor orientation and cap polarity. A tidy wiring harness using zip ties or lacing cord makes troubleshooting way easier down the line. Don’t skip the continuity check before powering up—it saves headaches.
- Must-have tools: Soldering iron (temp controlled), desoldering pump, flux, tweezers.
- Key tips: Tin your wires, use heat shrink on exposed joints, and clean the board with isopropyl alcohol.
Q: How do I avoid cold solder joints?
A: Heat the pad and wire simultaneously, then apply solder to the joint—not the iron tip. Let it flow naturally until it looks shiny.
Step-by-Step Workflow for a Clean 80% Completion
To achieve a professional-grade finish on your receiver, mastering a few essential tools and techniques is critical. Start with a high-quality barrel vise and action wrench to secure the receiver without marring its surface during assembly. Proper bedding compound and a torque wrench are non-negotiable for accuracy and reliability. Use fine-grit sandpaper or a deburring tool to smooth all internal feed ramps and bolt races, then apply a thin layer of lubricant to moving parts. Don’t underestimate the value of a headspace gauge set to verify safe chamber dimensions. A sturdy bench block and brass punch set will protect finishes when installing pins or sights. Finally, always clean and degrease the receiver thoroughly before applying any coatings or final assembly, as residual oils compromise adhesion and performance.
Common Mistakes Beginners Make and How to Avoid Them
Finishing your receiver requires precision with the right essential tools for assembling an AR-15 lower receiver. Start with a roll pin punch set to avoid marring the finish, a torque wrench for the barrel nut to ensure headspace, and a vise block to stabilize the upper. Use a quality screwdriver for the grip screw and a hammer with a nylon head to prevent damage. For tips, lubricate all pins before installation and apply threadlocker to the buffer tube and handguard screws. Double-check spring orientation against your receiver diagram to prevent function failures. A properly finished receiver ensures reliability, so invest in these basics for a clean, professional build.
Compatibility With Glock and Other Pistol Platforms
The aftermarket pistol ecosystem thrives on cross-platform compatibility, and few chassis systems demonstrate this better than the latest modular frames. These designs seamlessly accept Gen 3 Glock 17 and 19 upper assemblies, locking in without modification. Beyond Glock, adapters unlock interoperability with S&W M&P, Sig Sauer P320, and even select CZ P-10 series slides—a game-changer for shooters managing multiple calibers or duty rotation. The key is a precision-milled polymer chassis that maintains a tight barrel lockup and trigger reset regardless of host platform. Owners report zero loss of accuracy when swapping between a Glock 34 slide for competition and a compact Sig slide for concealed carry. This versatility isn’t just convenience; it’s a strategic upgrade for anyone mixing stockpiles or testing parts.
Q: Will a Glock 43 slide fit a standard double-stack chassis?
A: No. Most modular chassis are designed for full-size or compact slides like Glock 19/17. Single-stack platforms require dedicated frames.
Matching Your Lower to Specific Slide and Barrel Models
The AMAG SA15 magazine is engineered for reliable compatibility across a range of popular pistol platforms, including Glock Gen 3, 4, and 5 models in 9mm. While its primary design targets double-stack Glock frames, it also functions effectively in select aftermarket chassis and AR-9 carbine builds that accept standard Glock-pattern magazines. This expanded capacity magazine offers a competitive edge in both duty and sport shooting contexts. However, users should verify fitment with specific pistol brands like Shadow Systems or Lone Wolf, as minor variations in magwell geometry can affect insertion. Glock magazine compatibility remains the core standard, with the SA15 adhering closely to OEM dimensions for reliable feeding and lockback in most compatible firearms. Performance may vary with non-Glock frames; testing is recommended to ensure flawless cycling.
For optimal reliability, always test the magazine with your specific firearm platform, as aftermarket compatibility is not universally guaranteed.
Trigger Groups, Drop-In Parts, and Aftermarket Upgrades
When evaluating aftermarket slides or barrels, compatibility with Glock and other pistol platforms is the foremost factor for reliability. A true drop-in component must match the specific generation (Gen3, Gen4, or Gen5) due to variations in locking blocks, trigger housings, and slide profiles. For example, a Gen3 slide will not function on a Gen5 frame without modifications. Beyond Glock, platforms like the Sig Sauer P320, Smith & Wesson M&P, and CZ P-10 each have unique slide-to-frame rail systems and extractor designs. Always verify that the recoil spring assembly weight matches your barrel length (e.g., 15lb for a 4.6-inch barrel) and that the striker channel is fully debris-free. Mixing brands—such as a Zaffiri Precision slide on a Polymer 80 frame—requires confirming the breach face gap and striker protrusion depth, ideally with a Go/No-Go gauge, to prevent light primer strikes. For non-Glock platforms, using a manufacturer-specific adapter plate for optics is non-negotiable for maintaining zero.
Magazine Fitment and Reliability Tuning
This holster demonstrates exceptional cross-platform compatibility with Glock and other pistol platforms, ensuring a seamless fit for a wide range of firearms. Engineered to accommodate Glock 17, 19, 22, 23, 31, and 32 models, it also accepts select Smith & Wesson M&P, Sig Sauer P320, and Springfield XD series. The retention system locks securely on the trigger guard, while adjustable screws allow users to fine-tune the grip for polymer, steel, or aluminum frames. This versatility eliminates the need for multiple holsters, offering a unified solution for shooters who switch between brands. Whether running a duty-rated Glock or a compact Sig, the holster maintains a rock-solid hold, rapid draw, and consistent reholstering—proving that one design can reliably serve diverse platforms without compromise.
Cost Analysis: Budgeting for a Full Pistol Build
Putting together a full pistol build from scratch is a thrilling project, but the costs can sneak up on you if you’re not careful. A quality lower receiver starts around $50, while a reliable upper receiver group can run you $300 to $700 depending on the manufacturer. You’ll also need a custom pistol build parts kit, which includes crucial components like the barrel, slide, and trigger assembly, often totaling between $400 and $900. Don’t forget the little things—magazines, sights, and a recoil spring assembly can easily add another $100 to $200. To stay on budget, prioritize your core performance parts first and skip cosmetic upgrades until later. A smart move is to build in phases, dedicating a set amount each month.
Q: What’s the cheapest way to start?
A: Buy a stripped lower receiver now, then save for a complete upper assembly. That way, you have a functional frame to build around and can spread the cost over time.
Price Range for Unfinished Frames vs. Complete Firearms
Building a custom pistol from the ground up demands meticulous cost analysis to avoid budget overruns. A full build, encompassing a stripped frame, slide, barrel, lower and upper parts kits, plus sights and magazines, typically ranges from $600 to $1,500 for reliable components. Allocate funds intentionally: the barrel and bolt are not areas for compromise. Strategic cost allocation ensures reliability without financial waste.
- Frame & Lower Parts Kit: $150–$400 (polymer vs. steel)
- Slide, Barrel & Upper Kit: $300–$800
- Sights, Guide Rod & Magazine: $100–$300
Tooling adds $50–$150 for punches, vises, and a trigger gauge.
A budget without a 20% contingency margin invites project delays from incidental costs.
For a first build, favor complete slide assemblies over piecemeal parts to simplify expense tracking and ensure headspace precision.
Hidden Costs: Jigs, Bits, Finishing Services, and Shipping
Budgeting for a full pistol build requires a strategic breakdown of costs to avoid financial surprises. Start with the foundation: a quality stripped lower receiver ($50–$150) and a complete upper assembly ($300–$800), which often determines accuracy and reliability. Essential cost-saving components include a lower parts kit ($40–$80) and a buffer tube system ($30–$60), while upgrades like a match-grade trigger ($100–$250) or red dot sight ($150–$500) can quickly escalate the total. Factor in tools (punch set, armorer’s wrench: $50–$100) and background checks ($10–$30 per transfer). A functional, no-frills build might land around $600–$900, but a premium, competition-ready pistol can exceed $2,000. Plan for ammunition and testing too—budget an extra $50–$100 for break-in rounds. Smart allocation, not just cash, turns a parts pile into a reliable firearm.
Long-Term Value of Customizing vs. Buying Off-the-Shelf
Budgeting for a full pistol build demands a strategic split between your lower, upper, and finishing components. A reliable frame and slide assembly are non-negotiable investments, typically consuming 60% of your total funds, while trigger groups, sights, and recoil springs demand precision over price. Avoid the costly trap of mixing incompatible parts; pistol build cost management hinges on sourcing from reputable brands that guarantee headspace and tolerances.
Skimping on the barrel and bolt is the fastest way to waste money on accuracy and reliability.
For a trustworthy entry-level build, allocate at least $450–$700, but be prepared for the hidden fees: transfer fees, tools like a vise block, and multiple shipping charges.
- Upper parts kit: $100–$150
- Barrel and slide: $250–$350
- Lower components: $150–$200
Lock in your core specs first, then adjust cosmetic upgrades last to keep your budget tight and your firearm functional.
Maintenance and Upkeep for Your Completed Build
Once your build is complete, regular maintenance ensures longevity and peak performance. Begin by scheduled dust removal from fans, heatsinks, and filters every three to six months using compressed air, which prevents thermal throttling. Check cable connections and reseat expansion cards annually to mitigate loose contact. For liquid-cooled loops, monitor coolant color and top off reservoirs; replace the solution every two years to inhibit algae growth. Apply fresh thermal paste to the CPU and GPU every 12–18 months to maintain efficient heat transfer. Update firmware and drivers bi-monthly for stability and security patches. Store your system in a low-humidity, ventilated area. Addressing fan bearing noise or vibration early prevents system-wide failure. A proactive upkeep routine, including antistatic cleaning procedures, protects your investment and sustains reliable operation for years.
Cleaning and Lubricating Polymer Frame Components
Once your build is complete, the real work begins with regular maintenance to keep it performing like new. Dust is the number one enemy, so make it a habit to clean your fans and filters every few months with compressed air. Routine PC cleaning prevents overheating and extends component lifespan. For liquid cooling loops, check coolant levels annually and watch for any pump noise or sediment buildup. Don’t forget to update your BIOS and drivers about once a quarter—this can fix bugs and boost stability. If you’re using thermal paste that’s more than two years old, consider reapplying it to keep temperatures low.
A well-maintained build runs quieter, cooler, and lasts longer than one left to collect dust.
- Vacuum intake filters every 2–3 months.
- Test your backup drive or cloud sync weekly.
- Listen for unusual fan or coil whine, and replace parts proactively.
Inspecting Critical Stress Points After Continuous Use
Once your custom PC is fully assembled, diligent maintenance ensures longevity and peak performance. Prioritize regular dust management inside the chassis. Use compressed air every three to six months to clear intake filters, fans, and the GPU heatsink, as clogged components can raise temperatures and throttle speeds. For liquid cooling loops, inspect coolant levels and tubing for micro-cracks annually. Thermal paste reapplied every two years on the CPU can drop load temps by several degrees. Update BIOS, chipset, and GPU drivers quarterly to patch security flaws and improve stability. Finally, run a storage health check (e.g., CrystalDiskInfo) monthly to spot failing drives before data loss occurs. A few proactive minutes a season prevents expensive repairs later.
When to Replace Parts or Retire the Lower
After your custom PC is assembled, ongoing maintenance and upkeep for your completed build is critical to preserve performance and longevity. Perform a bi-annual deep clean using compressed air to remove dust from heatsinks, fans, and the PSU, while ensuring case intakes have clean filters. Verify your CPU cooler’s thermal paste is still effective every two years. Run monitoring software weekly to check CPU and GPU temperatures are within safe ranges. Follow this schedule for key tasks:
- Monthly: Update GPU drivers and chipset firmware; check SSD health with manufacturer tools.
- Every 3–6 Months: Reseat RAM and GPU if experiencing crashes; reapply thermal paste if idle temps exceed 40°C.
- Annually: Replace case fans with high-quality PWM models if noise increases; inspect PSU capacitors for bulging.
Always power down and discharge static before touching components. A proactive schedule prevents dust-induced throttling and extends your hardware’s reliable service life.
Frequently Asked Questions Around 80% Receiver Ownership
Many enthusiasts ask if a 80% lower receiver is legally a firearm. The clear answer is no—until you complete it beyond the “80%” stage, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) does not classify it as a firearm, meaning no serial number or background check is required for purchase. However, once you mill or drill it to function, you become the manufacturer and must comply with all local laws regarding serialization and sale. This is a powerful pathway to personal firearm craftsmanship under the Second Amendment.
Q: Do I need a license to build an 80% receiver?
A: No. As a non-licensed individual, you may build a firearm for personal use, not for sale or distribution, without a Federal Firearms License (FFL).
Can You Legally Sell or Transfer Your Finished Firearm?
Many gun owners wonder if they need a serial number for an 80% receiver ownership. Legally, a raw 80% receiver is not classified as a firearm by the ATF, so no serialization is required for personal manufacture. However, confusion often arises around resale and transfer. If you ever decide to sell, gift, or build a firearm from that receiver, federal law then requires you to engrave a unique serial number. State laws also vary dramatically—California and New York demand serialization even for personal builds. To stay compliant, always verify your state’s specific mandates before beginning your project.
What Happens If Your Build Is Seized by Law Enforcement?
Navigating the legal landscape of 80% receiver ownership raises several common questions. Many enthusiasts ask if these kits are legal to own without a serial number. Generally, yes, as the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) does not classify an unfinished receiver as a firearm until significant material is removed. However, owners must understand that once they complete the machining, they are legally manufacturing a firearm. This triggers critical responsibilities: personal use only—you cannot sell or transfer the completed firearm to another person. Additionally, state and local laws can overrule federal allowances, so always verify your jurisdiction’s specific rules. Common queries also include whether you need a background check (no, for the kit itself) and if the receiver must be serialized (only if you plan to sell it).
Are There Serialization Requirements After Completion?
For firearm enthusiasts building their own platforms, questions about 80% receiver ownership legality remain the most pressing. The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) confirms that unfinished 80% receivers are not considered firearms, so no serial number or background check is required for purchase or possession. However, once you machine the receiver into a functional state, you must ensure it does not violate any state-specific bans on unserialized firearms. Key concerns include:
- Transfer restrictions: You cannot legally sell or give away a completed 80% receiver without engraving your name and serial number.
- Interstate travel: Transporting a completed homemade firearm across state lines may conflict with local laws polymer 80 requiring serialization.
- Commercial use: Manufacturing for profit requires a Federal Firearms License (FFL).
Ultimately, personal manufacture for non-commercial use remains federally permissible, but you must verify your state and local statutes to stay compliant.